This dress was intended to be somewhat like the dress in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion, 1560 - 1620, on page 7. It is "A lady in a blue velvet gown with round sleeves, c1580, f.103 from a Milanese tailor's album, c1555-80. Biblioteca Querini-Stampalia, Venice." There is a similar idea (collar-wise) in 20,000 Years of Fashion, plate 466, page 230, "A. Bronsino: Laudonea de'Medisi, c.1560-65. Florence, Galleria Antica e Moderna", but without the round hanging sleeves.
I based the bodice design (under dress) on Arnold's draft of Elenora of Toledo's dress (page 104) but with a single lace in the center back.
The standing collar shape for the overdress was based on some standing collar patterns found in the Libro de Geometria by Juan de Alcega, 1589. A drawing of this kind of collar pattern is on page 4 of Arnold's book. Those patterns were for men's doublets, but I decided the finished product looked enough like the 20,000 Years of Fashion dress that I would use it. If I had done up more of the center front hooks, the collar would have looked better.
The skirts of both under and over dresses were cartridge pleated. I have a petticoat or two on, but no hoops/farthingale.
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